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A more curious kind of science

Peptides in skincare: what’s behind the label?

A familiar ingredient can come with a big promise. The useful questions start with what was actually tested.

By the Peptidoteca editorial team2 min readUpdated

First, find the ingredient

The front of a skincare product may simply say “peptides.” A closer reading starts with the ingredient’s name and the evidence attached to it.

GHK-Cu is one example discussed in skin research. A 2018 review by Pickart and Margolina brings together research on this copper-binding peptide, including tissue-remodelling and gene-expression work. It is a review, not a trial of the product in your hand.

Explore the sources [1]

A plausible story is the beginning

An explanation of how an ingredient might interact with cells can be useful. But a product claim also raises practical questions: what formulation was tested, how was it applied, and what changed?

Keep the measurement in view. A laboratory observation and a visible change assessed in people answer different questions. A good article should tell you which one it means.

Explore the sources [1]

Read the label with better questions

Ask whether the cited study tested the finished product or an ingredient on its own. Check the comparison group, duration, and reported limitations.

You do not need to dismiss every interesting ingredient. You need enough detail to understand what a claim rests on. The source below is one place to start exploring the science, rather than a ranking of products.

Explore the sources [1]

Explore the sources

Open a source to read its methods and limitations. Published titles are kept in their original language.

1. Pickart L, Margolina A. Regenerative and Protective Actions of the GHK-Cu Peptide in the Light of the New Gene Data. Int J Mol Sci. 2018;19(7):1987.

A review of GHK-Cu research, including tissue-remodelling and gene-expression findings. Not a test of a particular finished cosmetic.

Original publication

This guide explains research. It does not recommend a treatment, product, or dose.

Plain-English glossary

Keep your curiosity going.

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